The first thing I did after landing and checking into my hotel, was head to Ocean Drive in South Beach (or SoBe). It was exactly how I imagined it: a strip of restaurants and bars with neon-lights, loud music, swarms of people (dressed in everything from jogging bottoms to barely-anything bikinis), and pitcher-sized cocktails. It was awesome! The best way to experience Ocean Drive is by walking on the path closest to the beach so that you can fully appreciate the old-school, art deco architecture, (and avoid the nuisance drunks and bar staff asking you to eat in their restaurant). The buildings are worn, discoloured and gorgeous (if art deco is your thing!). Check out the architectural tour below for exactly what to keep an eye out for.
The people in Miami are friendly, as per the typical American way. And they’re also big: big butts, biceps and general bulges! And they run on ‘Miami time’. I was there for work, and when they told me a meeting was at 8:30am, they really meant 10am…in some instances, 1pm! My Swiss-favoured time-keeping did not adjust well!
I loved Miami for it’s music, food, colours and (oh-so-slow) vibe.
THINGS TO DO
Architectural Tour: Take a short walk down Ocean Drive (make sure you head there after 6pm to see it become neon wonderland!), then up Collins Avenue which runs parallel, then along Washington Avenue. Aside from people-watching, there are plenty of wonderful buildings to look at. Make sure you check out: Edison Hotel, a yellow-and-blue property from the 1930s; the pink 1920s Locust Apartments, now housing the Fat Tuesday cocktail bar; and the pink, yellow and white Waldorf Towers complete with lookout windows. Turn right along 9th Street and right again along Collins Avenue past the remaining walls of Coral Rock House, built in 1916. Continue past the Essex House Hotel, built in 1938, and turn left along 13th Street. At the corner of Washington Avenue you’ll see a US Post Office occupying a circular building dating to 1937. Continue up Washington Avenue, past the Cameo Theatre, to Espanola Way, a pretty Spanish-styled street full of with cafés and galleries.
Museums: The Bass A museum of contemporary art; The Holocaust Memorial Not a museum but definitely worth a visit when you’re at Miami Beach; Wynwood Walls An outdoor museum showcasing large-scale works by some of the world’s best-known street artists
Areas: Wynwood Known for its brilliantly awesome murals, Wynwood is one of the city’s coolest districts. Stroll around absorbing all the art, pop into converted warehouses housing craft breweries and funky art galleries, and make sure you go to Wynwood Walls; Little Havana is Miami’s vibrant Cuban heart, with Latin American art galleries and busy restaurants; South Beach is where Miami’s magic happens. Full of nightspots and celebrity-chef eateries. Head to Ocean Drive for it’s art-deco architecture and people gazing.
Work Outs: Run along Muscle Beach, a two-mile beachside stretch and stop to do some pull ups with the locals; Barry’s Bootcamp for the usual tread/floor workout. Soul Cycle are also opening their third space in Miami.
EAT
Bodega Very cool joint with spectacular tacos. They have a speakeasy bar at the back with live music & DJs from 10pm
Dr Smood Really pricey but really delicious vegan eatery in the super cool neighbourhood of Wynwood. I worked around the corner and ate there almost every day. It was delicious (and thankfully I could expense it!)
The Wynwood Yard A pop up of creative eateries and bars with live music
Zak the Baker Deli Having started as an artisanal baker pedalling sourdough loaves at farmers’ markets, Zak now has a loyal following, with a line out the door of his kosher café at breakfast and lunch times
Cecconi’s At Soho Beach House. Absolutely stunning setting
Coyo Awesome Mexican street food with margs
Neither tried nor tested, but researched and recommended…
Mandolin Aegean Bistro Serves outrageously fresh and bright Greek and Turkish dishes
Yardbird For the best fried chicken of life
Ricky’s After tacos at Bodega, go for slider next door
Etaru A restaurant featuring contemporary Japanese Robatayaki cuisine
GLAM Vegan Casual choice for global meat-free meals, including bowls, salads & desserts
Bazaar Mar SLS Hotel’s sleek Philippe Starck–designed spot for inventive seafood fare from chef José Andrés
Upland Casually chic NYC spin-off featuring wood-fired dishes with Californian & Italian influences
27 Restaurant & Bar Tucked away in a two-story cottage at the rear of The Freehand Miami hotel and hostel where the popular Broken Shaker cocktail bar is also found. Their menu is delicious, modern Israeli food
Icebox Café The bright, airy dining room is chic, with whitewashed wooden accents and cushioned banquette seating. It also has a nice bar if you happen to be dining solo
Boteco Copacabana Brazilian-style tapas (shrimp risotto, chicken croquettes and more)
News Café Grab a table outside and watch the wonderful world of South Beach go by. The café opened in 1988 and has since become the classic venue to chill out, read the papers and linger over coffee
Lost Fuegos The skirt steak a la parrilla with chimichurri and crowned with a crispy domino potato is amongst the tastiest cuts of meat I’ve ever indulged in
StripSteak By acclaimed San Francisco chef Michael Mina is found inside the famous Fontainebleau Miami Beach hotel
Joe’s Stone Crab A classic a dining experience as it gets in South Beach. Their key lime pie is the best in Miami, so I’ve heard
Zuma The modern Japanese import from London inside the EPIC Hotel
Lure Fishbar Located inside the Loews Hotel’s historic St Moritz Tower with nautical chic décor and superior modern seafood
Michael’s Genuine Food & Drink Chef Michael Schwartz’s restaurant in the Design District neighbourhood that single-handedly ushered in the farm-to-table movement in Miami
The Bazaar by José Andrés Avant-garde Spanish chef José Andrés has made his mark in Miami at the sexy SLS South Beach hotel with The Bazaar, offering a modern take on traditional Spanish tapas
Eating House Favourites on the playful, modern and constantly changing menu include: pork belly with calabaza, banana mole and smoked jalapenos; organic chicken with “foie”-ffles (waffles prepared with foie gras); and sea scallops with local carrots in a maple-miso sauce
Dolce Italian A chic, understated dining room with the delicacy of the freshly-made pastas
Lucali Situated in a cozy warehouse-meets-Italian-grandma’s dining room in hip Sunset Harbour, Lucali serves a straightforward menu of made-to-order, thin-crust, brick-oven pizzas, indulgent calzones and sophisticated salads
Makoto Sleek, elegant restaurant featuring modern, upscale Japanese entrees, sushi & robata dishes
PINCH Kitchen New American cuisine with an eclectic bent is paired with craft beers & wines at this cool hangout
KYU Modern Asian-style eatery offering grilled meats & sashimi, plus cocktails
Lincoln Road Every Sunday there’s an awesome food market
Pubbelly Sushi Great sushi
Jugo Fresh Order the Sunset Harbour Acai bowl and try their cold pressed juices
Doraku Asian mix. Try the flank steak, brussell sprouts and crispy bok choy (must be crispy)
Rosetta Bakery Delicious bakery & good coffee
Front Porch Café At the back of the Ocean Hotel on Ocean Dr
Einstein’s Bagel Bakery On Mondays get 13 bagels & cream cheese to go for around $10
Go Go Fresh Small place with salads, soups and baked empanadas
Rosa Mexicano $14 unlimited guacamole. Sold.
Spris Popular pizza point with only three options
Books & Books Happy hour with quinoa & kale salad. My kinda place.
Byblos Very expensive but very delicious Levantine food in the Shorecrest Hotel
Oliver’s A local institution
Frieze Ice Cream Factory Freshly made on site with different flavours
DRINK
Panther Coffee Hipster roaster
Sweet Liberty Good cocktails, with good music
Freehand Retro hotel vibes with a pool in the middle where people gather around the edge to drink (and sleep) on the sunbeds
Neither tried nor tested, but researched and recommended…
Sugar Asian influenced rooftop car
Monty’s A Miami institution. It’s a bar with a bad restaurant. It’s designed like a Tiki Hut which is quite typical of the style in the Keys
The Standard Hotel Sip drinks and soak in the view
Floyds Awesome speakeasy
Employees Only Awesome prohibition style bar
CLUB
Bodega Taco bar with speakeasy bar at the back with live music & DJs from 10pm
Neither tried nor tested, but researched and recommended…
Story A ridiculous line up of DJs
Don’t Sit on the Furniture House musac
Baoli Restaurant and club in a garden setting
Club Space Remenicent of the Ibiza haunt
SLEEP
Marriott Biscayne Bay Nothing great, really dated. (Stayed there for work)
Neither tried nor tested, but researched and recommended…
The Setai Art deco with Asian aesthetic
The Townhouse Boutique vibes and rooftop lounge
Beacon Hotel A modest 1930s find
Beach House By Soho House. Stunning spot
The Miami Beach EDITION Luxury boutique
Freehand The coolest hostel in Miami
The Betsy Stunning hotel with rooftop pool
Delano 5-star in SoBe
I visited Miami in November 2017